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 EASTERN ANATOLIAN REGION |
 The Taurus Mountains
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The Taurus Mountains paralleling Turkey's southern border and
the Black Sea Mountains in the north meet to form a mighty range
which defines the country's eastern border. The tremendous
diversity of the eastern and southeastern lands surprises
travelers: the red ochre plateau of Erzurum; the forests, the
waterfalls, and the green pastures of Kars and Agri, the
permanent snow-cap on Biblical Mount Agri (Ararat); and the
immense Lake Van with its deep blue waters. Dwellings and ways
of life also vary greatly in this region. For example, small,
earth-roofed houses typify Kars. The region's long and turbulent
history has left monuments to its various civilizations;
Byzantine monasteries and churches, Seljuk mausoleums and
caravanserais, and elegant Ottoman mosques and hilltop citadels.
To the inveterate traveler and lover of adventure, this region
of Turkey fascinates, astonishes and informs.
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Erzurum
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Erzurum, the largest city in eastern Anatolia, sprawls on an
altitude of 6400 feet. Although the collection in the
archaeological museum reveals much of the city's history and
ancient origins, it is Erzurum's architecture which is in fact
the city's best museum. The city walls and fortress are
reminiscent of the period of Byzantine rule. Particularly
important are the remaining Seljuk buildings. The Ulu (Grand)
Mosque, built in 1179, has an unusual form with seven naves. The
Çifte Minareli Medrese, or theological college built by Sultan
Alaeddin Keykubat in 1253, astonishes with the eleborate
carvings on its portal and its majestic double minarets. Behind
the Çifte Minareli Medrese, stands the Üç Kümbetler, a group of
three tombs, the most notable of which is that of Emir Saltuk.
The 13th century Hatuniye Türbesi, or mausoleum, was built for
Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat's daughter. The beautiful portal and
richly tiled minaret of the 13th century Yakutiye Medrese
reveals another facet of Seljuk architecture. You can also see
Ottoman buildings in Erzurum; the great architect Sinan left his
mark with the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque.
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Palandöken
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A road through splendid mountain scenery leads to the winter
sports resort of Palandöken, only 4ml from Erzurum. This center
has the longest ski run and best snow quality in Turkey, and is
favourite haunt of expert skiers. The glassy Tortum Lake, 80ml
from Erzurum from towards Artvin and the Black Sea, may be the
most tranquil sight in all of Turkey. Be sure to see the Tortum
Waterfalls at the north end of the lake plunging from a height
of 145 feet.
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Kars
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Kars, standing at an altitude of 5775 feet, has played an
important role in Turkish history and was at the center of the
Turkish-Russian War. The Russian legacy can still be seen in
much of the town's architecture. The lower city unfolds at the
foot of an impressive Seljuk fortress of 12th century. Nearby
the Havariler Museum (the 10th century Church of the Apostles)
reveals a curious mixture of architectural influences.
Bas-reliefs representing the twelve apostles, in rather stiff
and awkward poses, ring the exterior drum of the dome. The
Archaeological Museum houses beautiful wood carvings, an
excellent collection of coins found in the surrounding region as
well as many ethnographic items relating to eastern Turkey. Kars
is particularly known for its distinctive carpets and kilims,
and retains a strong heritage of folk dancing. Twenty miles east
of the city on the ancient Silk Route, the medieval city of Ani,
lies mostly in ruins. Impressive fortified walls still encircle
the ruins of numerous churches, mosques and caravanserais: It
definitely reflects the grandeur of its past days.
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Dogubeyazit
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South of the ancient city of Ani is Dogubeyazit, a small town
well known for its spectacular Ishakpasa Palace. Ishak Pasa, the
Ottoman governor of the province, constructed the palace in 17th
century in a mixture of architectural styles. Nearby you can see
a bas-relief of an Urartian king, and a rock tomb from the ninth
century BC.
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Mount Ararat
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Near Dogubeyazit, Turkey's most scenic natural monument, Mount
Ararat rises to a height of 16500 feet. To see the place where
it is thought that Noah's Ark came aground go to Üzengili
village, 15miles east of Dogubeyazit. Make sure that you try the
local dessert, asure (Noah's Pudding), believed to have first
been made by Noah's wife from the last bits of food in the ark
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Van
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Van, the ancient Urartian capital of Tuspa, tempts visitors
to the eastern shore of the Lake where it is located. This
remote but important city is set in a verdant oasis at the
foot of a rocky peak. An imposing 9th century BC citadel
overlooks the new and old parts of town. Steps carved in the
rock lead to the Urartian fortress; half way up inscriptions
pay homage to Xerxes. Within the fortress are several
Urartian royal rock tombs. In the old city, the Ulu Mosque,
Hüsrev Pasa Mosque, Kaya Çelebi Mosque and the Ikiz Kümbets
reflect Seljuk and Ottoman architectural styles. Van's
interesting Archaeological Museum is in the new city, inland
from the uninhabited old district. Still very much part of a
traditional style, the women of Van produce dark and
beautiful kilims woven in blue, red and white patterns. The
exotic Van cat, a protected animal, has thick white fur and
one blue and one green eye.
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Lake Van
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Lake Van, the largest lake in Turkey and at the altitude of
5350 feet, is ringed by impressive mountains: Mount Süphan
on the northwestside and the Ihtiyar Sahap Mountains to the
south. You can travel the circumference of the entire lake
visiting several ancient Urartian sites as well as others
that represent the legacy of various peoples inhabited the
area. Some of the islands in Lake Van have monasteries built
on them; no doubt the remote location offered seclusion to
the resident religious communities. Thirty miles southwest
of Van, Akdamar Island ( twenty minutes sale from the shore)
is the most important of these. On the island stands the
tenth century Church of Holy Cross, now designated a museum,
whose stone outer walls are richly carved with Old Testament
scenes and figures.
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